Cibo Opens on 17th Avenue
Just in time for patio season, Bonterra Trattoria's little sister, Cibo, has opened her doors, and hallelujah, she takes reservations. With room for 220 people indoors and 48 on the west-facing patio, there’s a boisterous, jovial tone, where you half expect your Nonna to burst out of the theatre kitchen (or at least Jimmy Durante).
Scodellina are starter bowls, designed for sharing and to not spoil your main course.
Though the menu is thoroughly Italian, the interior features much that’s authentic to the turn of the century building (formerly Roger’s Video). Medicine Hat red brick tiles line the walls, wine cabinets have been cleverly fashioned from original window frames and floor tiles are lodge pole pine, straight from a losing battle with pine beetles. Even the multicolored wood on the bar upstairs has been reclaimed, as have the Lira coins lining the entryway (and, who knows, they just might become legal tender again someday).
Delve into the festive mood right away with a bottle of cheap and cheerful Il Faggeto Prosecco ($5.50 per glass, $33 per bottle), to accompany scodellina — small bowl appetizers like artichoke bruschetta, burrata (fresh mozzarella) with grilled broccolini and white anchovies and cured lemon (one for $4, three for $11 or five for $18).
Wild boar bacon pizza.
Move on to pizza from the gas-fired Forno Bravo oven, including the savoury wild boar bacon ($17), which is chock full of charcuterie, and the speck and pineapple ($16) — a zesty twist on Hawaiian.
Farfalle with chicken, pancetta, sun-dried tomatoes and pine nuts.
Herb rotisserie chicken ($19) that gently falls off the bone is plated with a tangy salad studded with caper berries, torn bread and olives. Generous portions of pasta such as farfalle ($15), a savoury concoction of chicken, pancetta, sun-dried tomatoes and pine nuts, beg to be shared. And the almond-shaped, pan-fried gnocchi ($13) is a hearty dish, bursting with the flavours of summer, like lemon and basil.
Cibo means food, plain and simple, and that’s what you get at this casual, flavour-driven cucina urbana (urban kitchen).
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