Find Dining: Holy Smoke,Ric's Grill,Rico's in The Village,

Where There's Smoke

Holy Smoke
4640 Manhattan Rd. S.E.
403-605-9365
and
420 16 Ave. N.E.
403-263-4659

Over the past year or so, drivers on Blackfoot Trail around Manhattan Road S.E. have been distracted by the sweet, smoky scent of Southern barbecue. It was the residue of Holy Smoke, a little café with a big smoker outside.

Then, around the beginning of September, the scent went away. Drivers were upset. But, despite coinciding with the new Distracted Driver Law, it was purely a strategic move by Torin Shuster, the pit boss behind Holy Smoke. 

Shuster was tired of stepping outside to retrieve pork butts and brisket from his big mobile smoker. So he leased a space on 16th Avenue N.E., removed the Missouri-built Ole Hickory smoker from its trailer and installed it inside. Now the Okanagan fruitwood-fuelled smoker is slowly flavouring meats and filling the nostrils (and bellies) of Trans-Canada drivers. And those meats are shipped down to the Manhattan Road cafe on a daily basis.

Holy Smoke’s new café, set up for quick dine-in and takeout, is decorated with hubcaps and lined with milkshake machines and sauce squeeze bottles. It’s a simple, busy place. 

One caution: No driving while eating one of these smoky-drippy sandwiches. That would be highly distracting, not to mention messy. —John Gilchrist

Chain Reaction

Ric's Grill
1436 8 St. S.W. 
403-269-7427 
and 
2875 Sunridge Way N.E. 
403-668-9969
ricsgrill.com

Ric’s Grill is an upscale steak, seafood and chophouse that’s a protein-lover’s paradise.

With two locations in Calgary (and 22 others throughout B.C. and Alberta), this sophisticated chain definitely puts steak in the spotlight. Choose from different cuts of locally sourced beef to suit your appetite (six-ounce to 16-ounce), and further personalize your meal with a selection of made-from-scratch sauces such as whiskey peppercorn or cognac cream. If steak’s not your thing, there are plenty of seafood options, such as black-and-blue ahi tuna with creamy sesame ginger sauce ($31), and Tuscan halibut ($23). Or you might go for the chicken Neptune ($30) or the rack of lamb (full-rack, $34). On the lighter side, there’s a wide selection of salads and starters. 

The decor is warm and inviting — perfect for a cool evening out — or, when the sun shines, you can soak up the rays on the patio and delve into one of the delicious homemade desserts. —Jennifer Hamilton

Animal Attraction

Calgary Zoo
1300 Zoo Rd. N.E. 
403-232-9993
calgaryzoo.com

It’s never good to eat like an animal, but eating among the animals is a different story. 

Every Sunday, the Calgary Zoo hosts a Safari Brunch in the zoo’s Destination Africa exhibit. The generous buffet features lighter fare like fruit and a selection of salads. There’s also bacon, eggs, traditional eggs Benedict, two chef’s choice daily entrees and all the other hot breakfast fare one looks for in a brunch buffet. As well, there are made-to-order omelettes and a waffle bar. Top it off with tasty cakes and pastries, and a trip to the chocolate fountain for some true morning decadence. And don’t even worry about the calories — arrive before noon and go for the combo rate which includes admission ($16.95 for kids, $31.95 for adults, $29.95 for seniors). That way, you’ll walk them off exploring all the wonderful areas of the zoo, such as the Canadian Wilds, Australia and Destination Africa. —Jennifer Hamilton

Village Bites

Rico's in the Village
136 1 Ave. N.E. 
Airdrie 
403-980-8055

Like many chefs, Rico Pacheco has always wanted his own restaurant. And, after a couple of decades working in restaurant kitchens and driving trucks on the side, his dream has been realized. He bought the former manse of the United Church in Airdrie and, over the past two years, have converted it into Rico’s in the Village. (The Village is the oldest part of downtown Airdrie; the manse was built in 1904.)  

The renovation has created a charming, colourful, two-storey restaurant that has a sunny deck out front. Rico Pacheco, with his Chilean heritage, has focused the menu on tapas such as Madeira-infused pulled pork, curried shrimp skewers and grilled portabello mushrooms. His crab cakes are lovely — crisp outside, tender and tasty inside. His queso con chorizo fundido is a bowl of richly flavoured cheese and sausage. Hearty for a winter’s day. 

He’s kept everything tapas-sized and tapas-priced. So, with nothing over $14, you can mix and match your meal and have a little or have a lot. —John Gilchrist