Published Jul 5th, 2011

Lynda Sea

Model Milk's Justin Leboe

Things you should know about this Calgary chef and restaurateur

AGE 38

HAILS FROM Vancouver, B.C.

BEST KNOWN AROUND TOWN FOR … being the wunderkind former executive chef at Rush restaurant.
 

EARNED HIS STRIPES AT … prestigious kitchens all around the world, including Accolade in Toronto and Daniel, French Laundry and Waterloo House in Bermuda. “I started washing dishes when I was 13 for Umberto Menghi in Vancouver,” he says. “The day I started, I watched the cooks on the line and knew that’s what I wanted to do.”
 

ON HIS NEW CALGARY RESTAURANT, MODEL MILK … “We’re borrowing the bistro style and keeping things flexible to change the menu daily,” he says. “I want it to feel like you’re at your friend’s house for a dinner party of 100 people every night.” Expect the atmosphere to be loud and the place to be open late. There’s even a Japanese wood smoker for slow-cooking meat on an open fire. “We’re  looking at a departure from the food style that we had at Rush. It’s a paring down of that to what’s essential, rather than the formality of it all. If we feel like smoking ribs for 12 hours, then we will.”
 

WHAT'S IN A NAME? The restaurant takes over space in the 1932 art deco Model Milk building, a former dairy. Milk bottles appear in reliefs on the outside. It was in operation until the 1960s, and even had a milk bar where you could get ice cream out front.
 

ON CALGARY'S CULINARY CLOUT … “Calgary is on the cusp of a really good food scene that the rest of the country has to take seriously,” he says. “People throw around the tagline of Portland [Oregon] because Portland has such a grassroots restaurant scene that is getting so much attention because it’s so anti-establishment, young and progressive. You look at the non-traditional restaurants opening in Calgary in the last year alone, it’s the same direction.”

Model Milk

308 17 Ave. S.W.

403-265-7343

modelmilk.ca
 

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