15 Classic Calgary Restaurants

Catch: Sea of Change
Here in landlocked Calgary, seafood was never something the city was known for — until Catch. Ever since Michael Noble opened this fine-dining restaurant and oyster bar in 2002, critics and locals have raved for the so-fresh-it’s-flown-in-daily catch from both the west and east coasts. Executive chef Hayato Okamitsu’s Japanese-inspired menu includes starters such as the “chika” teriyaki cod and tempura prawn ($16). His popular wonton crusted tempura prawns appetizer ($12) is only on the lunch menu — providing the perfect excuse to stop by for a business lunch. A five-course chef tasting menu ($95) of Okamitsu’s winning dishes from the 2009 Canadian Culinary Competition includes his sukiyaki-style braised Alberta beef short rib and lobster miso bisque. Other à la carte entrees include braised veal cheek, butter poached lobster tail on marscapone risotto and white asparagus with gremolatta ($49), as well as a black angus AAA 10-ounce New York steak with Madeira sauce and ragout of potatoes, with mushrooms and double-smoked bacon ($47). Desserts are all made from scratch. Catch brings classy and casual under one roof, and the immaculately made food and superb service keeps us coming back. (100 8 Ave. S.E., 403-206-0000, catchrestaurant.ca) — Lynda Sea

Bow Bulgogi House: Do-it-yourself Dining
If you manage to get a table at the no-frills Bow Bulgogi House, tucked into an unassuming strip mall in the southwest, you either made a reservation or the Korean barbecue gods were smiling on you. Loyal diners looking for sweet and spicy marinated meat almost always occupy the restaurant’s 10 tables, even during non-peak times. The main attraction is bulgogi, or Korean-style barbecue of thinly sliced meat marinated in soy sauce, sesame oil, garlic, ginger and pear juice before being flame grilled (beef or pork, $14.95; chicken, $15.95). Pile it into a lettuce leaf along with rice and an array of sauces and it is easy to see why tables are hard to come by. Other stand-out dishes include pha jeon, a seafood- and green onion-stuffed pancake ($18.95) and beef bee bim bap: rice mixed with marinated vegetables, beef, hot sauce and a fried egg ($12.95). Round out the feast with side dishes including kimchi ($3.50) and tofu buchim ($1.95 to $6). But be forewarned, no matter what you order, you will leave Bow Bulgogi House with a full stomach and the lingering sent of Korean barbecue. (3515A 17 Ave. S.W., 403-686-6826) —Jaelyn Molyneux

Buchanan's: Chop Shop
In the feeding frenzy of the last bull market, many restaurants attempted to disguise their chophouses as sleek powerhouse hangouts. Not so at Buchanan’s, where tradition harkens back to 1988. With bistro-style chairs, white paper tablecloth covers and mahogany with brass accents, the décor is warm and inviting. Steaks and chops are cut daily in-house, and the menu features Alberta Grade AAA beef, including mouth-watering filet mignon with Bernaise sauce or foie gras mousse butter (6-ounce, $38.50; 8-ounce, $42.50; 10-ounce, $49.50), a 26-ounce T-bone steak charbroiled and served with Alexander Keith’s beer-battered onion rings ($59.50) and a juicy 28-ounce prime rib chop with horseradish apple sauce ($55.50). Pork and lamb chops round out the carnivorous options, and there’s also a good selection of seafood that’s flown in fresh every day. The lunch crowd for the Eau Claire restaurant knows Buchanan’s best for its famous premium sirloin burgers cooked to order ($19), and malt whisky aficionados recognize Buchanan’s list as the finest in the city. (738 3 Ave. S.W., 403-261-4646, buchanans.ca) — Jennifer Hamilton

Cilantro: California Cool
When Cilantro opened its doors in 1988, its California-meets-Southwest cuisine was a novelty in this city. Now, wood-fired flatbreads and homemade pastas with inspired topping combinations have become a staple of upscale casual dining in Calgary. Flatbread crusts, including dill pesto and ancho chili pesto, come paired with toppings such as pears, gorgonzola cheese, black pepper and pine nuts ($18 to $20), or chicken and pancetta, caramelized onions, lime sour cream, pickled chilies and fresh cilantro ($19 to $22). Pasta varieties such as black pepper linguine — an original menu item — and lemon conchigliette are handmade in the basement before being tossed with chicken, tomatoes, spinach, sesame seeds and white wine nutmeg cream sauce ($24), or chorizo sausage, prawns, scallops, lobster, snap peas, poblano peppers and basil-chevre-parmesan cream sauce ($25). In the summer, dine on Cilantro’s 50-seat patio, where white lights are strung through the trees and eight-foot walls block traffic noise. In the winter, the cozy 70-seat dining room and the upstairs enclave are ideal venues for indulging in the rotating list of more than 250 wines available by the bottle and 25 by the glass. (338 17 Ave. S.W., 403-229-1177, crmr.com/cilantro) —J.M.

La Chaumière: Vive la France
In a dining landscape filled with fusion and menus that mix influences, La Chaumière keeps it traditional, and tasty, by focusing on high-quality French cuisine and service. Inside the multi-roomed eatery, gentleman-waiters in white shirts and vests attentively tend to diners. Choose a bottle from the extensive wine list before settling on an appetizer like duck confit ($11.50) or beef carpaccio ($13). La Chaumière’s lobster bisque ($8.50) is finished tableside; a nice touch. Main dishes include fish (seared tuna with foie gras and red wine butter sauce, $32) and meat (veal fillet with crab, asparagus and herb hollandaise, $32; rack of Alberta lamb with local mustard and mint, $36.50). La Chaumière has been open for more than 30 years and, with dishes and service like this, will be around for decades to come. (139 17 Ave. S.W., 403-228-5690, lachaumiere.ca) —Anthony Charron

The Ranche: Rustic Retreat
In 1896, rancher and entrepreneur William Roper Hull built the Bow Valley Ranche House in what would later become Fish Creek Provincial Park. Hull’s grand house was the scene for high society in its day and hosted many parties; in 1999, this tradition continued when The Ranche restaurant opened in the restored historic building. The Ranche serves food that speaks to the property’s rich ranching roots. Prep your palate and share the Rocky Mountain charcuterie board with smoked game meat, fish and accompaniments ($24), followed by the artisan lettuce salad with pistachio crusted Fairwinds goat cheese, honey roasted grapes and caramelized onion thyme vinaigrette ($12). For mains, whether you opt for ranch-raised bison rib-eye with sage butter and pink peppercorn sauce ($39), the free range chicken with black cherry compote in a port wine reduction ($32), clover honey bourbon roasted salmon ($32) or the wild rice and slow-roasted squash with torn spinach risotto ($24), the rich flavours won’t disappoint. Dig into the banana-rum sticky toffee pudding ($9.50) to finish. (15979 Bow Bottom Tr. S.E., 403-225-3939, crmr.com/theranche) —L.S.

Salt & Pepper: Ready, Set, Sizzle
It has been 20 years since Mexican restaurateur Silvio Solano first began dishing up heaping, saucy plates of tacos, enchiladas and rellenos at his restaurant, Salt & Pepper. These days, Solano is still the chef while his wife and son manage the business and have expanded it to three locations, all using the same authentic Mexican recipes and casual approach to dining. Start your meal with a pitcher of margaritas ($27) and an appetizer (ceviche miramar, $9.74; chips and salsa, $5.93). Main courses include pork chops (grilled with spicy adobo, $17.49), chicken (grilled with mole and sesame seeds, $18.84) and fish (steamed basa with chipotle sauce, $21.74). If you are unsure of what to order, lean over to the table next to you and ask what your neighbours are having, or go for a platter (combinacion poblana with chile relenos, tacos, enchiladas, $18.94, or the Chef’s Platter with enchiladas, adobo pork chops, taquitos, quesadillas, $21.74 per person). Finish with coffee accented by a hint of cinnamon ($2.34) and a dessert of crispy pastry dusted with sugar and served with chocolate sauce (sopapillas or churros, $6.25). (4351 Macleod Tr. S.W., 403-243-3173; 6515 Bowness Rd. N.W., 403-247-4402 and 114 3 Ave. W., Cochrane, 403-932-7772, saltnpepper.ca) —J.M.

Rive Café: A Walk in the Park
Over the years, River Café has upheld its reputation as an unfaltering champion of regional Canadian cuisine and locally sourced ingredients. Its location on Prince’s Island continues to draw visitors and locals for weekend brunch, celebratory dinners, engagement proposals and, in the summer months, one of the best patios in the city. Start things off with the red lentil hummus and canola seed flatbread ($12), or, if you’re sharing, the fish and game platter ($21) and its assortment of trout, duck, boar prosciutto, walleye and pork terrine. Main dishes are from the land (Diamond Willow organic beef tenderloin with braised short ribs, blue cheese scalloped potatoes, with horseradish relish, $49; Dirt Willy Farm pheasant breast with confit leg ragu, stone ground polenta and chanterelle mushrooms, $42), and from the water (roast sablefish with Alberta wild rice, beech mushrooms and Asian pear and fennel salad, $39). Don’t pass on the house-made truffles made from Hacienda Iara single-plantation chocolate ($2 each). The award-winning wine list and nearly 3,500-bottle cellar also offers plenty of choices to complement your meal. (Prince’s Island Park, 403-261-7670, river-cafe.com) —L.S.

Thai Sa-on: Spice of Life
Thai food is still an underrepresented cuisine in Calgary, and of the few authentic Thai eateries in Calgary, Thai Sa-on is hands-down the best. Owner and wine lover Sam Chanhao opened his traditional Thai restaurant in 1989 and its staying power is a testament to the delicious food and stellar wine selection. For appetizers, the Royal Thai Sa-on is a must-order; it’s a sampler that includes satay skewers, deep-fried bird-shaped shrimp, purple flower pork and chicken dumplings and a phyllo shell with pork, chicken and corn, complete with various dipping sauces ($20.95). Follow that with the spicy and sour Tom Yum soup ($5.95, with seafood; $4.95, with chicken or beef) and fiery papaya salad ($12.95). Order a canister of rice ($3, jasmine; $3.50, coconut) to have with the green curry beef in coconut milk with vegetables ($15.95) or lemon-grass chicken ($14.95). The requisite pad thai ($13.95) is definitely not to be missed, and the ice cream with coconut and deep-fried bananas ($6.95) is a delicious post-dinner treat. (351 10 Ave. S.W., 403-264-3526, thai-sa-on.com) —L.S.

Bravo for Brava
With its prime location on 17th Avenue and a decade of practice, Brava Bistro just might be the standard-bearer for contemporary cool in Calgary. Stroll in any night of the week and you’ll be sure to find an ever-changing selection of unique wines by the glass and a menu of long-time crowd pleasers served in a room that exudes style. Appetizers like the lobster gnocchi ($16) and lobster poutine ($16) are great for sharing. And on the dinner menu, dishes like the beef short rib ($29) and the lamb shank ($29) have almost earned legendary status among Calgary diners. And don’t forget to try a side of Brava’s delicious mac ‘n’ cheese ($5). (723 17 Ave. S.W., 403-228-1854, bravabistro.com) —A.C.

Caesar’s Steakhouse & Lounge: Carnivorous Classic
In its nearly 40 years, Caesar’s Steakhouse & Lounge has perfected the ceremony of eating steak with
ambience, decor and dishes that have remained relatively unchanged since it opened its doors in 1972. Dark wood, burgundy leather and Roman columns are more classic than cheesy as the venue for feasting on sterling silver and AAA beef. Caesar’s steak is aged 28 days and cut to order (rib-eye 10.5-ounce, $35.95, or 15-ounce, $42.95; New York strip 8.5-ounce, $36.95, or 12.5-ounce, $43.25; T-bone 20-ounce, $44.95; filet mignon 8.5-ounce, $43.95- or 12.5-ounce, $49.95), before being broiled over charcoal at the torch-shaped grill in the centre of the dining room. To increase the ceremony, a few entrees are prepared table-side, including the Chateaubriand (filet mignon, asparagus, cherry tomatoes, broccoli, mushrooms and carrots with Bearnaise, $90 for two) and steak Diane (filet mignon with mushroom brandy sauce and vegetables, $46.95). Entrees are served with French onion soup, tossed salad and your choice of potato and cheese or garlic toast, making it difficult to save room for the hot apple pie with warm rum toddy sauce ($5.50). (512 4 Ave. S.W., 403-264-1222 and 110, 10816 Macleod Tr. S.E., 403-278-3930, caesarssteakhouse.com) —J.M.

Silver Inn Restaurant: Chinese, Calgary style
Silver Inn Restaurant has been serving Calgarians Biejing-style Chinese food since 1975, and has been credited as the birthplace of ginger beef as we know it. The Silver Inn version, which is called deep-fried shredded beef in chili sauce ($11.75), has a lighter sauce and batter than lesser versions and is excellent. On the menu, you will also find a wide variety of Beijing-style dishes including hot and sour soup (for four to six, $10.50), grilled pork dumplings ($8.75) and chicken and cashew in yellow bean sauce (12.75). Items like dumplings, noodles and the pancakes for the Mu Shu (pork, $12.50 for 8 pancakes) are made in-house. It all adds up to tasty. (2702 Centre St. N., 403-276-6711, silverinnrestaurant.com) —A.C.

Silver Dragon: Cart Cuisine
Dim sum at Silver Dragon is about more than just dish after dish of stacked bamboo steamers pushed around on metal carts by fast-talking waitresses. For the past 43 years, the ritual of yum cha (literally translated as “drinking tea”) at this Chinatown restaurant has been a popular tradition among Calgarians. The raucous chatter of diners, the clinking of chopsticks against porcelain bowls and the sharing of bite-sized morsels with tea are all a part of the experience. As the carts go by with food, patrons point to what they want and are charged per dish. Selections range from $3.50 for sticky rice; $3.95 for barbecue pork buns; $4.25 for egg tarts, bean curd skin rolls, chicken feet or beef tripe; to $5.50 for steamed shrimp rice crepes. Congee ($5.95) and steamed gai lan ($6.25) can also be ordered from the servers, even though these dishes don’t appear on the trolleys. Service is speedy; almost as soon as you polish off a dish, servers whisk away the empty plates. Large groups should show up early to snag a table. (106 3 Ave. S.E., 403-264-5326) —L.S.

Bonterra Trattoria: Inside and Out
While it may be difficult to enjoy Bonterra Trattoria’s spectacular patio in the depths of a Calgary winter, the menu, filled with fine Italian food, has all you need to keep you comforted until the spring thaw. Start your meal with a selection of cheeses served with fig jam, pear mostarda and moscato jelly ($18), wild mushroom soup ($10) or a grilled octopus salad ($17). Pasta selections include pumpkin and eggplant lasagna ($18) or oxtail ravioli ($15). Entrees include red wine braised shortribs ($31) and wild boar Milanése ($32). Bonterra’s wine list has several selections by the glass and bottles from Italy and the U.S. (1016 8 St. S.W.,403-262-8480, bonterra.ca) —A.C.

1886 Buffalo Café: Museum Quality
Through the ebbs and flows of Calgary’s Eau Claire district, with all of its grand plans and stalled construction, there has been one small, but stalwart building anchoring the area and adding a touch of history. The 1886 Buffalo Café is named for the year American entrepreneur Isaac Kerr of Eau Claire, Wisconsin, founded his lumber mill on the banks of the Bow River in Calgary. In 1984, the Café took over the mill’s second office building (built in 1911). Outside, the white, wood-clad facade remains the same. Inside, history and the mouth-watering fumes of homestyle hash browns ($3) ooze from the Café’s wood-panelled walls, which are decorated with framed dollar bills, antique clocks and more than a few mounted buffalo heads. Favourite dishes include the vegetarian chili omelette ($11), cheesy Ed’s Benedict ($11.75) and spicy huevos rancheros ($12). Or customize your meal by building your own omelette ($9; toppings $1.25 each) or Baxey sandwich ($11.50, including toppings). The kitschy restaurant opens early and serves breakfast until mid-afternoon. (187 Barclay Parade S.W., 403-269-9255) —J.M.