Flavourful Finds

Best of Both Worlds

While it may be tricky to find, Colonial Fusion Cuisine, in the new Quarry Park development in the far southeast, is worth the drive.

Kenny Nguyen is the man behind this sophisticated French-Vietnamese-Thai restaurant. Expect pho and vermicelli at lunch but, come dinner, it’s traditional Vietnamese and Thai with a twist. Start off with appetizers such as the salmon, beef or scallop carpaccio ($14), P.E.I. mussels in green curry ($14) or grilled la lot leaves rolled with marinated beef ($13). Or try the Coquilles St. Jacques Provencal: four scallops in a tomato and white wine sauce ($14).

For entrees, you’ll find flavour-packed options such as the honey-glazed Mahogany quail ($23), tamarind chicken ($21) or Colonial’s big-ticket item, the lobster pad thai ($46). The bright, open dining room is adorned with potted orchids, paper lanterns, plush faux-leather dining chairs and a Swarovski crystal dragon above the bar.

The food’s presentation is immaculate, too — you eat with silver chopsticks and a single orchid blossom adorns the corner of every plate. (197, 163 Quarry Park Blvd. S.E., 403-723-6669, colonialfusion.com)

Good Things Come in Small Packages

The next time you are looking for an intimate evening of fine cuisine, consider Chef’s Table.

Located inside the Kensington Riverside Inn, this small dining room always feels warm and welcoming, even when full. The attentive staff have an easier time keeping a close eye on you, too, which is an added bonus of this little spot.

Like the room itself, the ever-changing dinner menu is small, but artfully created weekly by chef Jeff Park. The open kitchen allows you to watch as the staff prepares your meal.

The menu changes frequently and could include appetizers like certified Angus steak tartare ($18), sunchoke risotto ($16) or soft-shell crab ($19), and entrees like ricotta gnocchi with goat cheese, pine nuts, beech mushrooms and smoked salmon caviar ($26), or a rack of spring lamb served with blue cheese polenta, pearl onion, glazed baby turnip and mint jus ($43).

If you really want to indulge, order the $98 five-course Chef’s tasting menu, with an optional wine pairing at $48 per person. If your intimate dinner goes well, you can grab a room upstairs. (1126 Memorial Dr. N.W. 403-228-4442, kensingtonriversideinn.com)

Fresh Spin on Pizza

The proliferation of upscale pizza joints in the city continues with the addition of Una Pizza + Wine.

The consistent busyness of the restaurant suggests it’s a trend Calgarians heartily approve of.

The restaurant is located in the old Wicked Wedge space on 17th Avenue S.W., but the room is completely new, modern and energetic … and not just about pizza, either.

Start with a dish of roasted almonds with cumin ($3), prawns flamed with sambuca ($11) or veal and pork meatballs baked in tomato sauce ($12).

The salads are also eminently shareable, including romaine hearts with toasted walnut vinaigrette ($9) and ribbons of marinated zucchini with lemon, olive oil and grana padano ($5).

But pizza is the main event here, and the pies are California-style thin crust with liberal interpretations about what’s acceptable on top, including Yukon gold potatoes, provolone piccante cheese and fireweed honey ($15).

The wine list offers a good range of both value and higher-end wines, and includes 25 to 30 wines by the glass.

Not sure what to order? The servers are adept at making suggestions. (618 17 Ave. S.W., 403-453-1183, unapizzeria.com)