Canmore: The Best of Both Worlds

It used to be that Canmore was Banff’s ugly sister — a humble mining town in the shadow of the glitzy postcard star just up the highway. But these days, you really have to dig deep to find evidence of the town’s gritty past.

Resort property proliferation over the past decade has dramatically changed the face of Canmore, establishing it as a world-class mountain village destination in its own right. Underneath it all, however, there’s still a small-town sense of community that has long been the attraction for the impossibly fit locals who call Canmore home, and for the wealthy weekenders who call it a second home. Just an hour’s drive from Calgary, it’s an ideal escape for mountain-seeking urbanites that like their luxury with a laidback vibe.

Those who think antler-based decor is passé for a mountain getaway will want to check in to the new resort on the block. Tucked between Bow Valley Trail and the Trans-Canada Highway, the Grande Rockies Resort (granderockies.com) is the first foray into Alberta and the resort-property game for Toronto-based Metropolitan Hotels.

While the exterior toes the classic alpine chalet line, the urban-boutique-hotel pedigree is apparent in the lobby, which is sleek and chic in shades of grey and plum, accented with a Swarovski crystal chandelier and a striking, polished-marble fireplace and cocktail bar.

All 153 of the resort’s one-, two- and three-bedroom suites show like contemporary condos, with wood and tile floors, in-room washers and dryers, futuristic shower pods that do everything short of handing you a dry towel, and fully equipped kitchens with granite countertops and stainless steel appliances. The home-away-from-home feel extends onto its large, private balconies, each outfitted with a gas barbecue and patio set.

So many modern conveniences in such a stylish setting might make it tempting to stay in, but the lure of the mountains is impossible to deny. Make a quick stop at Mountain Mercato (mountainmercato.com) on Main Street for bread, cheese, olives and Serrano ham, then head up Spray Lakes Trail past the Canmore Nordic Centre just west of town to the Grassi Lakes trail entrance.

The easy hike (less than four kilometres, round trip) features lakeside benches for perfect picnicking and a first-hand look at the area’s vibrant rock-climbing scene. Later on, head back into town and join the après hiking and climbing crowds for a cold beer on the sprawling patio of the Iron Goat Pub & Grill (irongoat.ca). Perched on the crest of a hill on the opposite side of the Trans-Canada from downtown, the pub boasts a spectacular view of the sun setting behind the iconic Three Sisters peaks.

For those in search of a little retail therapy, Canmore’s walkable Main Street has some eclectic gems. Shoe divas will appreciate the funky footwear and cheeky “will cook for shoes” aprons at Gingerella (gingerellashoes.com), while basement used-book seller The Second Story Used Books (secondstorybooks.ca) is a great place to browse away a rainy day. Avid readers may feel like the proverbial kid in the candy store there, but for a literal interpretation of that sentiment, stop by the Olde Tyme Candy Shoppe (oldetymecandyshoppe.com), where the shelves are stocked with Pez, jellies, jawbreakers and vintage sweets like bubblegum cigarettes and lemon drops.

When it comes time to take care of those tired tootsies, head to Verde Day Spa (verdedayspa.com), where pedicure clients are seated in spine-melting massage chairs. Green-minded gals (and guys) will also like the fact this spa uses organic skin care products, exclusively.

Canmore has always had its fair share of quality dining options, but sushi-loving locals couldn’t be more thrilled to have Wild Orchid Asian Bistro on the scene, despite a rather obscure location in the Silver Creek Lodge at the northwest corner of town. Part of restaurateur Witold Twardowski’s stable of eateries, Wild Orchid wins points for its spicy tuna roll with crispy tempura nuggets and tables around a firepit on the terrace.

Longstanding late-night hangout Zona’s Bistro (zonascanmore.com) has also broadened its horizons, subletting off-hours to Aroma’s Cafe, a family-run restaurant offering authentic Mexican fare. Aroma’s takes over the Zona’s kitchen, restaurant and patio daily for breakfast and lunch and stays open for dinner and salsa dancing on Tuesdays.

Of course, the quintessential Canmore experience requires a visit to Communitea Café (thecommunitea.com), a bright, airy space a couple blocks off Main Street, where the lithe and lean convene over loose-leaf teas and healthy lunch bowls built on soba noodles and quinoa. A hub for the stroller set during the daytime, Communitea turns up the lounge vibe at night with live folk and roots music, and has recently sweetened the deal with Cupcake Fridays — albeit gluten-free dark chocolate cupcakes with matcha green tea icing. The quintessential Canmore cupcake has got to be good for you, somehow.