For Nhi Tran, operating a business is truly a family affair. Growing up, her mom, Nguyen Bui, and dad, Nguyen Tran, along with her aunt and uncle, Huong Hong and Duong Tran, owned the Orchid Room restaurant in Bankers Hall. The entire family, including Nhi, her three siblings and their cousin, pitched in to help with various aspects of the restaurant. Today, Nhi and her husband, Tanner Ennis, continue the legacy, owning and operating Paper Lantern and Prosperity Bar in Calgary’s Chinatown, alongside her sister and brother-in-law.
From a young age, Nhi recalls hearing her parents, aunt and uncle discuss their shared dream of one day owning a pho shop. In 2005, Nhi’s family decided to make their restaurant dreams a reality and purchased Orchid Room, a Vietnamese-fusion restaurant.
“Calgary was absolutely booming, so it was really fun,” Nhi recalls. “My parents loved the restaurant business. They loved everything about it. In Vietnamese culture, you hang out at your business all day — which they loved. Whereas for us kids, who were raised in Canada, we’re not used to the idea of growing up in a restaurant.”
Nguyen Bui reflects on her dream of owning a restaurant. “I like to cook, and I wanted people to come and enjoy good food,” she says.
“Yeah, we’re happy when we see people ordering food they like,” her husband, Nguyen Tran adds. “When we cook for people, they become like family.”
The couple shared a love of feeding others and fostered a deep connection with their customers that fuelled Orchid Room for more than 13 years. Their community-minded values left a lasting impression on their children and shaped the way Nhi and her sister would approach their own restaurant business.
Taking over the reins
The younger generation all lent their support by working at Orchid Room when help was needed. Two years in, the manager left to pursue a personal business venture, creating a sudden void in management. The family felt that one of the children would be best suited to take on the role and navigate the demands of the downtown Calgary corporate crowd. With the older kids already embarking on professional careers, the responsibility fell to young Nhi. She found herself managing the family restaurant while also juggling university studies. “It was crazy, because I had to learn how to run a restaurant at the age of 19, having been appointed to the job,” she recalls.
Despite the steep learning curve, Nhi discovered a genuine passion for the hospitality industry, leaning into her family’s values of treating customers like family. She credits the fast-paced nature of the restaurant with growing her comfort in managing unfamiliar situations, which shaped who she is today. Nhi recalls the vibrant energy of Calgary’s downtown when her family took over Orchid Room. The Plus 15 walkways were bustling, generous expense accounts were the norm, and Bankers Hall was thriving. Orchid Room experienced intense lunch rushes, and, through this daily rhythm, the family cultivated a strong sense of community with customers and long-term tenants at Bankers Hall.
The recession of the 2010s brought significant changes to Calgary. Energy company Encana’s departure from Bankers Hall in 2013 resulted in a significant loss of Orchid Room’s customer base. By 2018, Nhi, her siblings and cousin recognized that the restaurant would require a significant evolution of its business model and marketing strategy to continue. They persuaded their parents to close the business.
During the Orchid Room days, Nhi’s family collectively worked at the restaurant to get the job done. But that often meant balancing other obligations, such as school and other jobs. For example, while Nhi’s mom and aunt did all the cooking, her dad and uncle drove taxi cabs, but would help during lunch hours.
A new generation of family restaurants
This familial approach and dedication to serving people continued into what would become the second generation of the family’s restaurants. Nhi and Tanner opened Paper Lantern in June 2020 with her sister and brother-in-law as silent partners.
Paper Lantern was created as a love letter to Nhi’s Vietnamese heritage with a tropical twist. It was Tanner who led the charge to centre the bar around the family’s Vietnamese culture. The cultural influence shows up in the warm hospitality, the menu and the décor, which includes black lacquer décor that once belonged to Nhi’s paternal grandfather.
Nhi’s mom and aunt continue their cooking role at the new restaurant, crafting dishes in the kitchen with a small team. Paper Lantern’s menu highlights traditional Vietnamese dishes such as Bánh Xèo (crispy Vietnamese crepes filled with pork, shrimp and mung bean) and Thit Bò SÔng uóp (thin slices of raw beef carpaccio dressed in a fish sauce vinaigrette with fresh herbs) — a departure from the upscale Vietnamese fusion menu at Orchid Room. While Orchid Room mostly tailored its dishes to suit a corporate crowd, Nhi believes that diners are now looking for a more authentic culinary experience. That’s what Paper Lantern delivers.
A few beloved dishes have made their way over to Paper Lantern as a nod to Orchid Room, including the crackling salmon spring rolls and signature fish sauce. Nguyen Bui is proud to be a part of her children’s business now, and she’s happy she still gets to cook food for people to enjoy. Nhi proudly shares that some of the Orchid Room’s former customers come to visit her mom at Paper Lantern.
In February 2024, Tanner and Nhi expanded to a second establishment: Prosperity Bar opened in a historic building a stone’s throw from Paper Lantern. Prosperity Bar significantly builds on the tropical theme, paying tribute to tropical drink culture with grandiose garnishes and fun dishes (hello Big Mac Egg Rolls!).
Two generations of Nhi’s family have woven their culture, passion and community into Calgary’s hospitality industry. Through Paper Lantern and Prosperity Bar, they continue to offer both incredible food, drink and genuine connections with their guests.
The friendly hospitality at Paper Lantern reflects the values of customer service instilled in Nhi years ago at Orchid Room. As she puts it, “I just really loved that you could create a place that could be part of a fun memory in someone’s existence.”
Paper Lantern, 115 2 Ave S.E. basement, 403-457-7765, paperlantern.ca, @paperlanternyyc; Prosperity Bar, 107 2 Ave S.E., 825-540-1232, prosperitybar.ca, @prosperitybar