You might not guess that one of Calgary’s oldest Japanese restaurants is owned and operated by a Chinese family with no previous restaurant experience. But, Sukiyaki House has been a beloved anchor in Calgary’s downtown for 49 years — with Anna Kwong at the helm for the past 22.
This long-standing success isn’t by chance. Anna is the heart of the business and her children, Judith and Justin, have joined her in running the family restaurant, despite neither ever having planned to do so.
Anna’s journey with Sukiyaki House began in 1991 when she arrived in Calgary as a new immigrant from Hong Kong and stepped into the role of bookkeeper for the original owner’s restaurant group. Opened in 1976, Sukiyaki House operated on 10th Avenue S.W. when Anna joined the business.
Anna eventually found herself out from behind the books and in the front of house. “One host had quit, and the manager asked me to help during lunch and busy times,” she recalls. Although she had no restaurant experience, she quickly adapted and began assisting with front-of-house operations along with the bookkeeping.
In 2003, Anna took the leap of buying Sukiyaki House from the previous owners as she had wanted to run her own business. When she received a notice of demolition from the landlord, she took another leap and moved the restaurant to its current space on 9th Avenue S.W. in 2009.
Evolving to meet changing tastes
Anna’s business savvy and willingness to take chances is why Sukiyaki House continues to thrive today. Her kids credit the restaurant’s success to Anna’s unwavering high standards and her tenacity in steering the restaurant through evolving customer patterns. One example of those high standards is the appointment of chef Koji Kobayashi to lead the kitchen and entire back of house. An Osaka native trained in kaiseki — the pinnacle of Japanese fine dining — Kobayashi’s menu skillfully balances traditional and innovative dishes, and honours the seasonality of ingredients.
The current menu also reflects the shift in diners’ palates and knowledge of Japanese cuisine. Many Calgarians want good sushi and sashimi, and Sukiyaki House delivers, ensuring both quality and authenticity by flying in fresh fish direct from Japan. But, back in the day, it was about getting customers to try sushi at all.
The corporate lunch crowd of the ’90s needed to be enticed with deals to try Japanese cuisine.The Kwongs recall offering daily specials that paired sushi with tempura, steak, teriyaki chicken or other meat options. “Our regulars still talk about how, on Thursdays, Sukiyaki House would have a $6.50 sushi and steak combo,” says Justin.
“Before, most customers would only order rolls,” says Anna. “Now they will order more nigiri or sashimi, and look for fish from Japan.”
Becoming a family business
Judith and Justin are now integral to the Sukiyaki House management team, but no one in the family planned for that to happen. They grew up sometimes doing homework in the back office and watching their mom at work, but, unlike many other children of restaurant owners, they didn’t work at the family business until adulthood.
After high school, Judith wanted to get into the hospitality industry, and approached her mom about working at Sukiyaki House. Anna declined her request. She wanted her children to pursue post-secondary education instead, and she felt working so closely together wouldn’t be great for family dynamics.
In 2009, Anna finally acquiesced, and Judith joined the Sukiyaki House team. Justin came aboard in 2011, working part-time while completing his university studies in commerce. After graduation, Justin brought fresh ideas to the restaurant, applying concepts from his business degree to improve operations and modernize processes with technology. Those changes proved invaluable during the pandemic, enabling the family to effectively pivot.
“Without him, we wouldn’t be so current now. As far as the operational side, he’s taken us to the next level,” Judith says with pride.
Meanwhile, Judith leveraged her media savvy to expand Sukiyaki House’s reach. Recognized for her talent in cocktail development and her collaborative approach, “Judith has changed our cocktail program,” says Justin. “She’s in tune with media and has helped us navigate social media and marketing, helping to bring attention to our restaurant.” A true community builder, Judith frequently collaborates with other bartenders and local businesses.
Looking ahead, the family acknowledges challenges with rising costs, shortage of hospitality talent and workforce, and a culture of hype-driven dining that often results in fleeting trends. Yet, they remain steadfast in their commitment to the original values that keep customers coming back. “Mom has very high standards. That’s why our product is very consistent — she oversees everything,” says Justin. The siblings agree that the restaurant’s decades-long success is because of the focus on quality and hospitality instilled by their mother — which remains the foundation of their business.
207 9 Ave. S.W., 403-263-3003, sukiyakihouse.com, @sukiyakihouseyyc
