Many Calgarians head to B.C. for summer vacation, my family included. This summer, instead of more well-known B.C. destinations, we headed southeast to the Nelson and Kootenay Lake region, located in the rugged Selkirk Mountains. More and more, Calgarians aren’t just driving through, but taking the time to discover Kootenay Lake, the largest natural lake in southern B.C., bordered by the Purcell Mountains to the east. The traditional territory of the Ktunaxa people, this region’s lakeshore is dotted by communities capitalizing on both mountain and lakeside living.
A scenic seven-hour drive from Calgary, Nelson acts as the main hub of the area, sitting on the West Arm of Kootenay Lake. This relaxing lakeside town attracts artisans and outdoor enthusiasts who, thanks to the mild climate, can play outdoors (hike, mountain bike and golf, and in winter, ski and snowboard) — all in comfortable temperatures. Beyond Nelson, north along Highway 31, you’ll find great hiking and swimming spots, good eats, adventure and fun.
Here are eight not-to-miss things to do in the Nelson and Kootenay Lake area.
Explore Nelson’s Baker Street
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The main drag of Nelson’s downtown core, Baker Street is filled with locally owned shops, restaurants and breweries, and lined with heritage storefronts as well as public artworks. Take a peek down neighbouring alleys, and you’ll likely spy a stunning mural. For unique and vintage-inspired paper goods and gifts, stop in at Cartolina. If you’re a fan of new-to-you clothing and accessories like I am, check out Strutters boutique or Silver Linings consignment, just off Baker on Ward Street. Stop in for yummy packed-lunch fixings at the Kootenay Co-op, which features a large selection of organic, local and premium grocery products.
On Wednesdays from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. until the end of September, Baker Street hosts the Nelson Farmers’ Market with local farmers and small business owners from around the region selling their wares. Check out artisan-crafted pottery, jewellery, home goods and even adorable finger puppets. Indulge in gorgeous fresh produce (hello, giant garlic!) or delicious pastries — or if you’re my son, a gooey-delicious Sugar Loops apple fritter the size of his head.
Stroll through Rotary Lakeside Park
This large urban park is a popular recreational area on Nelson’s waterfront on the city’s northeast end. Locals flock here to swim, play and just hang out. Located near the base of the landmark orange bridge, the park features a long sandy beach, café, change rooms, promenade, shady green spaces (great for reprieve from the scorching sun), a playground, tennis courts, a barbecue shelter and a boat launch. It’s also the home of the restored Streetcar #23, which runs along part of the waterfront during the summer and celebrates its 100th anniversary this year.
Rest your head at Cloudside Hotel
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Conveniently located on Victoria Street in downtown Nelson, this heritage inn is just a block from Baker Street, making it walking distance from a wide selection of restaurants and shops. It offers contemporary accommodations within the historic building with eight guest rooms/suites to choose from. Cloudside is cozy and clean with comfortable beds, friendly staff and a large sundeck to enjoy.
Get a bird’s eye view with Kokanee Mountain Zipline
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For the adventurous, or even the sort-of-adventurous, Kokanee Mountain Ziplines offers a thrilling way to see the valley from high above on six mountain ziplines, including one that’s 2,400-feet long and 300-feet high. Take in the spectacular views of the surrounding mountain ranges, Kootenay Lake and Kokanee Creek Provincial Park as you glide over 44 hectares of old Douglas fir and pine forests. The ecotourism company has been operating for a decade, sending thousands of zipliners of all ages happily on their way — our group ranged from six to 66. If you’re feeling extra daring, flip upside down on the trick line. Oh yes, I did! Frankly, it’s just super fun.
Take a hike on the Kokanee Old Growth Cedars Trail and to Fletcher Falls
Drive way up Kokanee Glacier Road (the same road where Kokanee Mountain Zipline is), and you’ll come to the Kokanee Old Growth Cedars Trailhead. This 2.4-kilometre trail is fun and doesn’t take hours. Get up and close and personal with ancient massive cedars; they make excellent backdrops for some pretty awesome selfies.
Further north along Highway 31, don’t miss the short hike to Fletcher Falls. You can opt for a steep five-minute trek or a more leisurely 15-minute walk to reach the falls — especially refreshing on a hot day. This recreation site near Kaslo is great for a swim with the cool water from the falls flowing into Kootenay Lake. There are also picnic tables and a rock beach to find a new addition to your rock collection.
Chow down on good Kootenay eats
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For truly yummy Italian food, head to Marzano on Nelson’s Baker Street. This is the place for authentic Neapolitan pizza, baked in a wood-fired oven. The grilled Humboldt squid is also delicious, as is the risotto verde. My kids refused to share their house-made gelato so I can only assume it was also delightful.
If you want delicious casual fare at great prices, make your way to The Doghouse on Front Street in Kaslo. This newly opened, open-air eatery offers a small but mighty menu featuring, you guessed it, hot dogs. But these ain’t your ordinary dogs; these are handmade smokies from the butcher next door, Eric’s Meat Market and Deli. Choose from signature dogs like the Mexi Dog or Slaw Dog, all loaded with tasty toppings, or go for the Stray Burger (get it?), also fresh from the butcher. Plus, they have $5 Puppy Dogs for the kiddos.
For an elevated, family-friendly dining experience, Ktunaxa Grill at Ainsworth Hot Springs Resort lets you sample fresh, local Indigenous-inspired cuisine featuring an array of proteins including steak, pork, steelhead trout, free-run elk and Fraser Valley duck. We could not get enough of the bannock with house-made spruce butter. Executive chef Cory Chapman and his team craft these dishes with care and will accommodate allergies and preferences.
Soak up the heat at Ainsworth Hot Springs Resort
A main attraction of the area, these hot springs were originally where the Ktunaxa First Nations peoples came to soak after long days of hunting, fishing and gathering. Now, you can experience the benefits of these mineral waters firsthand. Unlike some other natural hot springs, Ainsworth doesn’t have the sulphur smell. Lounge in the therapeutic pool or venture into the hotter waters inside the cave where limestone stalactites coat the ceiling. Too relaxed to drive? Stay a night (or three). Hotel guests get free access and dedicated time to enjoy the hot springs.
Go back in time at the J.B. Fletcher Store Museum
Located next to the Ainsworth Hot Springs Resort, this building housed the first and largest general store on Kootenay Lake. Built in 1896, the store closed in 1973, but it remains completely intact inside with all its original furnishings and fixtures. It’s like walking into a time capsule. Check out the meticulously restored displays of vintage foodstuffs, medication, toiletries, clothing and more.
To learn more about the area, visit nelsonkootenaylake.com.
Avenue’s writers and editors occasionally have dining or adventure experiences as a guest, including some of the experiences in this story. Neither complimentary experiences nor advertising are required for coverage in Avenue. Neither companies that advertise nor those that provide other incentives are promised editorial coverage, nor do they have the opportunity to review or approve stories before publication.
