illustrations by Jrme Mireault
Places like Avec, Posto, Rouge and Whitehall are flexing their gluten muscles when it comes to expert baking – and charging for it. It’s nice to see the industry putting some serious thought into loaves, and we don’t mind that some come with an additional charge, especially if it minimizes waste. (That said, we appreciate a heads-up if it isn’t free.)
Whether it’s a hearty vegetable like cauliflower, a long, meaty piece of octopus or even that charred crust you find with Neapolitan pizza, chefs are loving the deep umami flavour that comes from flickering flames and the intense heat they exude, and we like it, too.
Okay, it’s not technically a new thing, since fermentation has been popular for millennia. So let’s call it a revival that continues to gain traction because it makes food taste delicious. Kimchi on my taco? Miso in my broth? A piece of sourdough bread? Bring it on. Bacteria rules!
This winemaking tradition dates back to 6,000 B.C. in the Caucasus and produces earthy, tannic wines that range from bright gold to tawny brown. Pigeonhole was the first restaurant to really push orange wine on its menu and the style has continued to pop up around town. It’s frequently compared to ros (some even proclaim it the “new ros”), but only time will tell if it’s got staying power.