Ceviche’s place in Peruvian cuisine dates back to pre-Inca civilizations, which preserved fish with Indigenous acidic fruits. Now known as Peru’s national dish, modern ceviche combines those roots with Spanish and Japanese influences for a lightly cured fish dish, complemented by ingredients representing South America’s coastal and highland regions.
At Sumaq, chef Erika Costa celebrates the cultural significance of Peruvian ceviche with six options, including the signature Ceviche Sumaq. “Ceviche is very representative of our culture,” says Sumaq’s co-owner, Maria-Ines Maita. “It’s an emblematic dish.”
Here, we share how Sumaq has perfected this classic dish.
1424 17 Ave. S.W., 587-401-4083, sumaq17.com, @sumaqon17th
The leche de tigre
Erika Costa uses a blend of lime, garlic, ginger, onions and Peruvian spices to make the leche de tigre (tiger’s milk), the liquid used to cure the fish. It pools on the plate, with an added dose served in a shot glass. Pour it on top, or do as the Peruivians do and drink as a shot. “We use it as a hangover cure!” Maria-Ines Maita says.
The fish and seafood
Guests can choose whitefish (typically tilapia) or tuna, technically raw, but cured in house-made leche de tigre just before serving. The quick marinade means the acid doesn’t toughen the fish, giving it a sashimi-like texture. For extra oomph, Costa adds lightly cooked shrimp and octopus.
The sauce
Ceviche Sumaq is full of flavour, but not particularly spicy. Heat things up with a smidge of chili sauce made with ultra-hot Peruvian rocoto peppers, served on the side.
The sweet potatoes
Potatoes are ubiquitous to Peruvian cuisine. More than 4,000 native varieties grow in the Andes. To balance the acidity of the fish, Costa boils cubed sweet potatoes with cinnamon, anise and sugar for a warm, aromatic flavour.
The corn
For a contrast in texture, the dish features two preparations of Peruvian corn: juicy kernels and a sprinkling of fried cancha. Peruvian corn is neutral in flavour and is used here just for the crunch.