When the Dominion Bank building went up for auction, Dario Berloni was enamoured by its beauty. He purchased the 8 Avenue S.E. property in 1989 with a vision to create a restaurant that would last generations, inspired by European restaurants located in historic buildings.
Refurbishing heritage buildings and developing restaurants were not Dario’s primary professions. After graduating with a business degree, he worked in an executive role in his family’s plastics company. But Dario did have interests as a silent partner in a few restaurants. Alongside Witold Twardowski and Sal Howell, the group owned some of the most iconic Calgary restaurants at that time, including River Café and Mescalero. Teatro marked the group’s first project with Dario in a hands-on, operational role.
Capitalizing on a unique space
Despite its grandeur, the Dominion Bank building sat vacant for years. Critics said it was too far away from downtown’s central business area, but Dario remained confident in the space. Dario and his partners believed people are drawn to places with engaging activities, so he saw Teatro catering to the theatre crowd. “I was convinced we would become a dining destination with an open kitchen and informal dining in the unique bank space,” says Dario.
He and his partners were right. Teatro opened in October 1993 and became a fixture in Calgary’s cultural district on Stephen Avenue, thriving for 32 years and counting. The success of Teatro led to the Teatro Group, including Alforno, Eighth Avenue Trattoria and Cucina.
Dario’s daughter, Mia, essentially grew up at the restaurant. “My dad used to live upstairs above Teatro,” she says. “I remember we would have Teatro for dinner in the apartment every night, and I would go downstairs to make Shirley Temples with the bartender.”
In the ’90s, Teatro was a casual Italian spot for coffee, lunch or even a late-night haunt for those in the know. “One of the reasons why my dad opened Teatro as an Italian restaurant is that he wanted a nice place to take his mom when she came to Calgary, which I just think is the sweetest thing,” says Mia. “My Nonna was a fantastic cook, and it’s her tiramisu recipe that is still being used at the restaurant today.”
Passing the reins
Mia started working at the restaurant at 16 to earn some pocket money. She completed a university degree in environmental sciences, without any intention of taking over the restaurant business. But, during the pandemic, Dario asked her to help out. Throughout that challenging time for restaurants, Mia jumped into the deep end, working full time at Teatro Group in a variety of roles. She became the general manager at Alforno, the group’s bakery and café concept. In that role, Mia cherished the opportunity to build relationships with regulars, nurture the Alforno brand and learn from Teatro’s team of seasoned professionals.
The rapport she built with the team motivated her to take on a leadership position. Today, Mia serves as the president and CEO of the Teatro Group, taking over from Dario, who has since retired, but still provides mentorship.
Dario admits he wanted Mia to take over Teatro. “I did try to cajole her into it,” he says. “But, in the end, it was her decision and this made the difference. In [all] sincerity, it means the world to me.”
Mia attributes her leadership development to the mentorship from her dad and the Teatro team, along with the practical hands-on experience she gained working at the restaurants. She takes pride in the fact that much of Teatro’s leadership team has grown from within the business.
“I love the culture of our organization,” she says. “Everyone is willing to step onto the floor at any time. That environment really helped me learn all sides of the business, and it’s a culture I hope to continue to foster.”
Standing the test of time
Teatro restaurant has evolved into a fine-dining concept, and Mia believes the passion, experience and care on the team are critical to maintaining its longevity and her dad’s vision from 30 years ago. “From the get-go, he wanted to build a place that would withstand generations,” she affirms. While Teatro’s personality may have changed over the years, Dario was never swayed by trends. He stayed focused on a quality overall dining experience and an impressive wine program. Mia is committed to continuing that vision.
For example, Dario built Teatro’s wine program en primeur, meaning the wines were purchased in bulk while still in the barrel, with the intent of benefiting from selling the matured wines at higher prices in the future. By continuing to nurture these decades-long relationships with wineries — and building her own — Mia ensures that Teatro carries on having incredible access to bottles and brands.
Dario now spends much of his time in Europe, frequenting the very establishments that inspired Teatro. When asked what he is most proud of, he simply says: “My daughter, Mia, who will make Teatro shine more than ever.”
200 8 Ave. S.E., 403-290-1012, teatro.ca
