Brittany, on the northwest corner of France, has 1,200 kilometres of coastline, so it’s no surprise that Suzette Brittany Bistro has a nautical decor in celebration of all things Bretagne. Hot-pink crushed velvet pillows placed to comfort backs leaning against banquettes perk up the navy stripes and pale-grey accents. The tables are “bistro close,” but the room feels spacious thanks to expansive windows and high ceilings.
Savoury gluten-free buckwheat (sarassin) crepes (galettes) dominate the menu and speak to the restaurant’s commitment to tradition over faddist concepts. Moules and steak frites, a substantial burger, fish and plats du jour daily specials come together with a concise wine list that keeps the tight menu interesting. Delicate dessert crepes and le flottante (made famous at sister restaurant Cassis Bistro) delight those who save room. Perhaps what’s most authentic about owners Gilles and Andrea Brassard, along with executive chef Dominque Moussu, is their commitment as industry professionals. Thriving with Cassis Bistro since 2008, and adding this tidy offering now, they’ve proven that, while crepes may be a flash in the pan, they are not.
Restaurants in the Best New Restaurants category opened by the end of summer 2015. It gave each restaurant time to find its groove and our judges time to eat there before the deadlines for our March issue. Other restaurants have opened since and they are on our radar for next year.